When the natural latex on the underside of a cotton or grass mat softens after many washes, restore it by brushing on one thin coat of liquid natural latex in a well-ventilated space and letting it dry completely before the mat goes back on the floor. It is a half-hour job plus drying time, and it gives the mat years more on tile, marble and wood. Do not do this to the Darbha, which is cloth-backed and has no latex layer. If you are allergic to natural latex, choose with care and write to us first.
Why the layer softens
Every cotton mat we weave, every sambhu grass mat and the banana fibre mat leave our workshop with a thin layer of natural tree latex brushed by hand onto the underside. It is what holds the Indico or the Sambu Diamond still on a hard floor; we describe the material in the natural latex grip layer explained. Repeated washing and years of use soften it and the tack fades, but the mat is otherwise fine. Because we brush the layer on by hand in the first place, you can do the same at home.
First, make sure the latex is the problem
Sweep the floor and wipe the underside with a dry cloth, then try again; most "lost grip" is dust. If the mat still slides on a clean floor and the underside feels smooth rather than slightly tacky under your palm, the latex has softened. Our guide to stopping a cotton mat slipping covers the other causes.
What you need
- Liquid natural latex, sold by craft and art suppliers and online. Look for "natural latex" or "natural rubber latex", not a synthetic rubber, glue or spray adhesive.
- A wide, cheap brush or a small foam roller, and disposable gloves
- Newspaper or an old sheet larger than the mat
- A ventilated room, balcony or shaded verandah, and a day or two for drying
How to re-coat the underside
- Wash and dry the mat. Latex will not bond to sweat and dust. Wash cotton mats as usual (hand wash cold for the chakra rugs and Indico; delicate 30 °C in a laundry bag for the Diamond) and let them dry fully. Wipe grass mats with a damp cloth and air them until completely dry.
- Set up with air moving. Open windows and doors or work on a shaded balcony. Liquid latex smells strongly while wet and the smell leaves as it dries. Keep children and pets out until then.
- Lay the mat face down and flat on newspaper, with no ridges; latex pools in a crease.
- Brush on a thin coat. Gloves on. Pour a little latex into a dish and work it along the length of the mat in long strokes, section by section. Thin is the whole skill: a thin coat dries evenly and grips; a thick one dries slowly, stays tacky in patches and can peel. It should look like a wet film, not a layer of paint. Go to the edges but not over them onto the face, and keep it off the tassels.
- Leave it flat to dry. Do not move, roll or turn it. Follow the drying time on the latex you bought and add time for humidity; in the monsoon allow a day or more. It is dry when the surface has turned from milky to clear and feels dry, with only the slight tack a new mat has.
- Air it a day longer, loosely rolled on its end with the latex side out, so any remaining smell leaves before it goes back under your hands.
- Test on a swept floor. Lay it down and push a foot forward. It should stay.
Care by mat
| Mat | Latex underside? | Can you re-coat it? |
|---|---|---|
| Indico, Prana Shakti, Prithvi, Diamond Clay, Diamond Orange | Yes | Yes, after washing and full drying |
| Sambu Diamond, Sambu Jute, Sambu Frame, Banana Fibre | Yes | Yes, after wiping and full drying |
| Darbha | No; cotton cloth backing | No; nothing to restore |
What not to do
- Do not coat the Darbha. It is backed in cotton cloth and folds flat.
- Do not use synthetic rubber sprays, contact adhesive or anti-slip paint. They do not bond well to natural latex, are hard to remove and can stain through the weave.
- Do not pour latex onto the mat or trowel it on thickly.
- Do not work in a closed room, and do not handle latex if you are allergic to it; ask someone else, or write to us first.
- Do not dry the mat in the sun. The plant dyes fade and the latex dries unevenly.
- Do not coat a damp mat, and do not wash it straight after coating; let the new layer settle through a few practices.
Frequently asked questions
How often does the latex on a yoga mat need re-coating?
Rarely. The natural latex on the underside of our cotton and grass mats softens only after many washes and years of use, and most mats never need it. Re-coat when the mat slides on a clean, swept floor and the underside feels smooth rather than slightly tacky; one thin coat of liquid natural latex restores it for years.
What kind of latex do I use to re-grip a yoga mat?
Liquid natural latex, sometimes labelled natural rubber latex, sold by craft and art suppliers and online. Avoid synthetic rubber sprays, contact adhesive and anti-slip paints, which do not bond well to the existing natural latex and are hard to remove. If you are allergic to natural latex, do not handle it; ask someone else to do the coat or write to us first.
How thick should the latex coat be?
Thin: a wet film brushed along the length of the mat in long, even strokes, not a layer of paint. A thin coat dries evenly, stays flexible and gives the slight tack that holds a mat on tile, marble and wood. A thick coat dries slowly, stays sticky in patches and can peel, so if in doubt brush less and spread it further.
Can I re-coat the Darbha mat with latex?
No. The Darbha is kusha grass bound in three panels and backed in cotton cloth so that it folds flat; it has no latex layer and should not be given one. If a Darbha slides, lay it on a clean, dry floor, or put a cotton rug or a thin rubber mat beneath it.
Next step
Sweep the floor and wipe the underside before you decide the latex has gone; that fixes most sliding mats. If the back really has gone smooth, buy a small tin of liquid natural latex, pick a dry, breezy day, and brush it thin. The full care notes for each mat are on the Mat care page.
